This week, Hanna Raskin raves on Hijame Sato's "brilliant" Katsu Burger in Georgetown. Raskin argues that katsu burgers should become a Seattle signature food item: "Not only is the food at this 24-seat Georgetown joint exceptionally good (and priced to please the most tightfisted kin), but the namesake sandwich has a stronger claim to quintessential Seattle status than just about any dish that isn't teriyaki or a hot dog smeared with cream cheese." She finds no fault with the fries or shakes either.
At last, Providence Cicero visits Brian McCracken and Dana Tough's The Coterie Room. Cicero says that when McT "get it right — and they do more often than not — the results dazzle." If you go, get the Wagyu beef sirloin cap dish. Cicero calls it a tour de force. Though she seemed to enjoy nearly all she sampled("just right" poutine, heavenly cracklins, pleasing cavatelli, very good huckleberry waffle, etc), Cicero awards The Coterie Room a mere 2.5 stars. Cicero makes the point that Coterie's menu makes arbitrary distinctions. Pot: meet kettle.
Altura has Bethany Jean Clement quoting Rilke: Yup, she really, really, really liked it. Like Cicero at Coterie, BJC experiences moments of divinity and transcendence at Altura. The pasta is just as good as Spinasse's. But, it's the handling of meat that BJC worships: "Watching Nathan Lockwood cook meat could turn all but the staunchest vegetarian around—so much butter and beautiful herbs, and the way that he spoons the pan-juices up over the top obsessively, just to make it as good as it can be." In her post directing readers to her full review, BJC declares Altura "Seattle's Best Restaurant*". The asterisk allows a case to be made for Willows Inn. Though, you guys, Altura is right here on Capitol Hill.
· El Gaucho's Reel Problem [Seattle Weekly]
· The Coterie Room Offers Creative Menu [Seattle Times]
· Eating With an Angel [The Stranger]
· All Week in Reviews Coverage on Eater Seattle [-ESEA-]