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Eltana-bagels-crosscut.JPGCapitol Hill bagel shop Eltana opened amidst a swirl of rapturous press exalting its Montreal-style bagels." But according to Hugo Kugiya, owner Stephen Brown and his crew "neither tout nor encourage" this comparison. "The word 'Montreal' is Brown's Voldemort, that which must not be mentioned." He prefers "deliciously different bagel." As for Kugiya, he proclaims the wood-fired bagels "the best-made, most delicious bagel anywhere in the U.S., including New York City." Damn. [Crosscut]