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Hanna Raskin and Providence Cicero at Restaurant Bea

Photo: S. Pratt

Seattle Weekly's restaurant critic Hanna Raskin says that Restaurant Bea is at its best when chef Tom Black "gives in to his cheffy urges." Raskin praises the rabbit, sweetbreads, and advises readers to pounce on lamb kidneys--should they appear on the menu. Raskin is less taken with Black's nomenclature: she ate "blacknose king salmon" but finds the name meaningless(failing to indicate its origins or provenance). The only vegetarian entree on the menu, a mushroom-risotto cake, had burnt rice. The cocktails have room to improve, as the drinks she tried were "too alcoholic or too astringent."

Seattle Times' Providence Cicero samples both dinner and the recently introduced brunch at Bea and gives the restaurant 2.5 stars, proclaiming it destination-worthy. Like Raskin, Cicero finds that Black has a sure hand with rabbit. At brunch, pastry chef Jennifer Formaz is credited for "the wonderful buttermilk biscuits, scones and mini banana-chocolate chip muffins." Cicero also enjoyed the crab Benedict as a brunch entree. There are some service flaws, but she rolls with it: "It reminds me that Restaurant Bea is a neighborhood joint at heart, relaxed and full of fun."

· Restaurant Bea's Dainty Comfort [Seattle Weekly]
· Restaurant Bea in Madrona: Down-home and Sophisticated Cooking Served Side by Side [-ESEA-]

Restaurant Bea

1423 34th Avenue, Seattle, WA