Name change for what began as Fogo Brazilkian Steakhouse at First & Denny: it's now Fumaça (the Portuguese word for smoke). Soft opening this week, with a fully stocked salad bar out front and a forest of skewers holding roasted meats grilling over mesquite in the kitchen. Periodically, a black-clad server (called a gaucho) will remove a skewer from the rotisserie and carve the meat tableside. As long as you keep your coaster turned green-side up ("Sim, por favor"), they'll keep coming back. When you're done, you flip it over to the "Nao Obrigado" (No more, thanks) side.
The full rodizio experience (unlimited salad bar, unlimited cuts of lamb, beef, portk, poultry) will cost $40 at dinner, $24 at lunch. A la carte items, such as New York or rib-eye steaks, will also be available.
Owner and GM is Sandra Pizarro, who has worked previously alongside Fumaça's exec chef, Maritza Texeira, at the defunct Ipanema, a similar roast-meat buffet on downtown's Harbor Steps and Bellevue's Amazon Grill. Bar manager is Alberto Meza, late of Buenos Aires (yet another steakhouse).
Fumaça promises a happy hour from 3 to 6 nightly, as well as Friday and Saturday 10-1 with half-priced small plate.
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