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Raskin Globetrots Breakfast; Agrodolce Underwhelms BJC

Sushi Kappo Tamura/Agrodolce
Sushi Kappo Tamura/Agrodolce
Photos: S. Pratt

In this week's review round-up, Seattle Weekly's Hanna Raskin picks three spots serving global breakfasts that she says will get you to rethink your lackluster morning eating habits, while indulging the adventurous eater. On the menu: Cafe Turko in Fremont, A&B Cafe in the International District (formerly known as J&L Cafe), and Sushi Kappo Tamura, the prized sushi joint on Eastlake. On SKT:

My tray was crisscrossed by masterfully cut tuna, a British Columbia scallop, and local sockeye salmon that, nestled into gently seasoned white rice, made for a welcome revamp of the traditional Sunday-morning lox and bagel. The superlative sushi was accompanied by a tangle of tar-black hijiki and roasted squash, a cup of full-bodied green tea, and a soybean-and-octopus salad that tasted surprisingly like the porky beans beloved in Britain, another fish-for-breakfast culture.

The Stranger's Bethany Jean Clement was not as blown away by her visits to Agrodolce, where her dinner expectations were unmet.

BJC says her experience at Agrodolce was "just fine," which is not good enough when talking about the James Beard Award-winning chef/owner, Marian Hines:

It does not feel altogether right to take food like this—scrupulously sourced, carefully crafted, and, knowing Maria Hines, made with genuine love—and pick it apart, when, in fact, there's nothing wrong with it. But right now, only a handful of things at Agrodolce seem to reflect her expertise in making food that you just never want to stop eating.

What appears to be BJC's happiest moment was found in a bitter green salad accompanied by "the oozing of a soft-boiled egg so good, you could sense the happiness of the chicken that laid it."

· All Week in Reviews [~ESEA~]
· It's 8 a.m. Somewhere [Seattle Weekly]
· Sweet and Sour [The Stranger]

Agrodolce

709 North 35th Street, , WA 98103 (206) 547-9707 Visit Website

Tamura Sushi Kappo

2968 Eastlake Avenue East, Seattle, WA 98102 Visit Website

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