The Bars Are Beautiful, But How's the Food?

Von Trapp's is known for its behemoth-ness both in design and beer selection, but Seattle Weekly's Hanna Raskin isn't so big on their food. She likens the bar's prized pretzels to the offerings at a cheap motel:

For simplicity's sake, the pretzels are served at room temperature, but there's no logistical bargain to explain why they're dry and flavorless. When the pretzel's split and "stuffed" with a mild horseradish cream cheese, it's indistinguishable from the white-fleshed bagels on a Days Inn continental breakfast buffet.

The only saving grace? A couple of vegetarian options.

The Stranger's Betheny Jean Clement also hangs out on The Hill this week at the spacious Pine Box. But is the food as good as the beer? Especially since renowned chef and former Bisato/Lampreia owner Scott Carsberg consulted on the menu?

Some of it is. The beef short rib—a Flintstones-sized block of meat served with tzatziki salad and a shiitake-Parmesan strudel for $15—was fantastic. The meat was everything that it should be—almost creamy in texture, deep in flavor—plus, for once, possessed of a slight, perfect spicy heat. The salad was a fine companion, creamy in its own way.

Despite a few flubs, Pine Box has BJC's heart: "It's loud and pretty and a great deal of fun, and the food's worth a try."

· Von Trapp Offers Bocce, Beer, and Bavaria [Seattle Weekly]
· Going to the Chapel [The Stranger]