Providence Cicero smacks three stars on Restaurant Roux. "Who dat expediting those plates at the kitchen counter? she asks. "None other than New Orleans native Matt Lewis of Where Ya At Matt food-truck fame."
The Seattle Times food critic had almost no bones to pick about the Fremont spot's menu. While the shrimp buried in her jambalaya were submerged in a "painfully salty swamp of red sauce and grits," Cicero devoured "a pile of pig ears, slivered and fried" that "crackled with every salty bite."
While her root-beer glazed barbecued pork ribs were messy, staff was at the ready with wet warmed-up napkins. Cicero is full of just as much praise for Roux's brunch, which includes, "three craggy, crunchy, fist-sized chicken nuggets" on malted waffles. She says the Bloody Mary is, "A wake-up call that grabs you boldly by the throat, it will do a lot to right the day when the good times have rolled too long the night before."
The Stranger's Bethany Jean Clement found Tallulah's, Linda Derschang's latest, to be a departure from her other Cap Hill establishments. Diners are welcomed at the door by an oversized cat painting. Clement says the art has, "an almost pornographic come-pet-me gaze and such terrifically fluffy fur that if you're allergic, you might start sneezing."
BJC disliked the dry lentils that came with her grilled sardine, but she was into the lamb burger, "with its fat patty full of smoky-grill gamey-lamb taste, topped with a tangle of paper-thin lengths of zucchini for freshness (smart) and harissa for zing (yes!)." Tallulah's, she concludes, is a polished "neighborhood-spot good" in a newly dressed up part of Capitol Hill that will probably have something you'll like on the menu.
· Taste of the Big Easy: bacony, boozy, crispy-fried and good [Seattle Times]
· Tallulah's Best-of-the-'70s Chic [The Stranger]