Roux, LPC, Barnacle [Photos: S. Pratt]
This week, The Stranger's Bethany Jean Clement had a foodgasm at Roux, the new Creole restaurant from Matthew Lewis. Among the things she ate? Uh, it seems like maybe everything on the menu. But a few of her favorites were the fried rabbit saddle, which leant its goodness to the column title, "Better than fried chicken," head-on shrimp and cheddar grits, and enough bougie booze drinks to wash it all down. But don't eat the "gummy" hush puppies, she says.
The Seattle Times sent Providence Cicero to Le Petit Cochon, the Derek Ronspies-run snout-to-tail spot in Fremont. If you're ever in need of some food poetry, this little ditty will have you rhyming beet and duck feet all day long. She writes of duck heart which gives "agreeably liverish swagger to a strikingly composed salad landscaped with red beet purée," as well as the signature Phat Ass porkchop, all sorts of offals, and the challenge of finding a suitable dining companion for the adventurous restaurant. Of the chef, she says, "Ronspies has a playful side, but he's a thoughtful cook, careful to balance richness with acid, mindful of texture."
Seattle Mag praises Barnacle, not just as the place diners go for apertivi (which are delightful, Allison Austin Scheff writes) while waiting for neighboring Walrus, but also for its many food and drink charms. Especially notable are the wine pours, vitello tonnato with shaved pork tongue, and the anchovy and saltines. "Along with putting very delicious foods on plates, Erickson's prime talent is in creating aspirational spaces, setting chic, sophisticated moods and making diners feel soigné by association," she says of Chef Renee's newest, twee-est venture.
· Better Than Fried Chicken [The Stranger]
· Le Petit Cochon: Enjoy gastro adventures, head to toe [Seattle Times]
· Renee Erickson Triumphs Again with Barnacle [Seattle Mag]