[Photos: S. Pratt]
This week, Seattle Times food critic Providence Cicero takes on Tallulah's, Linda Derschang's latest on Capitol Hill. After calling out the mid-century interior with "vintage 2014" customers, including a row of women lining the bar ("all but two had cocktails in their manicured hands,") Cicero tucks into dinner. There's "nothing retro" on the menu from chef Walter Edwards (ex-Tilth, Golden Beetle, Crush, Oddfellows, Smith.)
Every dish includes at least one vegetable, plus eight vegan and over a dozen gluten free options. While the chicken was a touch over-brined, saltiness is an exception to the rule, with food so properly seasoned the critic, "never had to use the adorable owl salt-and-pepper shakers on every table." A soup of green garlic and nettles was "dazzling," pan-seared halibut "excellent," and poached eggs at brunch "cloud like." Long story short, Derschang "gets it right again" at Tallulah's. Translation? Three stars.
Over at Seattle Mag, Julien Perry files her first reviews, starting with Roux, the six-month-old "Creole mecca" in the former Buckaroo Tavern location in Fremont. While the shrimp are bested by their accompanying grits in one dish and earn mere "garnish status" in the jambalaya, Perry finds the well-priced food "spectacular," calling out a "addicting" crispy pig ear and declaring the "moist, pillowy" hush puppies "the best I've had."
Next, Perry heads to Altstadt, the Pioneer Square German beer hall opened by Brendan McGill (Hitchcock, Hitchcock Deli,) Lex Petras, and Ward Van Allen. The critic says, "Everything has flavor without being weighed down by fat," especially the four versions of leaner-than-usual, house-made sausage, "that still bursts with meaty essence." Hearty portions of sausage, sauerkraut, fries, and rye are evened out by the less heavy black kale salad.
· Spectacular Creole Food at Fremont's Roux [Seattle Mag]
· The New German Beer Hall in Pioneer Square [Seattle Mag]
· Tallulah's: Get your kicks with cocktails and veggies [ST]
· All Week in Reviews Coverage [-ESEA-]