In 1950, Washington's legislature changed the liquor laws, and suddenly you could buy liquor by the drink in restaurants. Peter Canlis opened a spot on Aurora, John Franco opened on Lake Union, Jim Ward opened 13 Coins, and Victor Rosellini (with his brother-in-law John Pogetti) opened Rosellini's 610 at the corner of 6th and Pike.
Victor, born in Tacoma, had worked in several "Little Italy" restaurants in San Francisco's North Beach; when he returned to Seattle he had the elegance and bearing of a patrician. The 610 was a hit with the downtown business crowd, even more so was the Four-10 in the White Henry Stuart Building a few years later: waiters in tuxedos, starched tablecloths, heavy silver service pieces, steaks flamed table side. More than the locations, it was the Rosellini name (and welcoming personality) that counted, a tradition that Victor's son, Robert, never quite pulled off.