Nirmal's Hopes to Change the Way Seattle Eats Indian Food, Starting December 21

It's been a year since Eater broke the news that prominent Indian chef Nirmal Monteiro would be bringing his world-renowned cuisine to Pioneer Square. Now, the restaurant that bears his name is ready to open at 106 Occidental Avenue S.

Owners Oliver and Gita Bangera recruited Monteiro, who has cooked around the world for 30 years from prominent hotels in Bombay, to Disney in Japan, to Iraq during the war (where Monteiro set up the main kitchen for U.S. Armed Forces).

Nirmal's will feature cuisine from India's many diverse regions; don't go in expecting butter chicken. Rather, Monteiro will show off his incredible range, cooking thalis, Indian sandwiches, soups, seafood, and much more. Monteiro will also have a tandoor oven at his disposal. Regardless of what he's cooking, Monteiro is meticulous and precise, his food vibrant and exquisitely balanced.

Nirmal's will be relatively upscale, with a sommelier-curated wine list, elegant ambiance, and modern plating. Seattle doesn't have much of a track record with upscale Indian food; Shanik was the closest to fitting that description, and it closed in March. Still, that was perhaps due to trying to serve dinner in a neighborhood of daytime office workers. Nirmal's will offer lunch and, after the holidays, dinner, in an entirely different neighborhood.

It's one of the most exciting restaurant openings of late, but it's flown curiously under the radar. Chances are that once the doors open and customers start trying the food, it won't be under the radar for very long. Nirmal's will be open for lunch Monday through Saturday from 11 to 2 p.m. starting December 21.