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Two and a Half Stars for Cafe Barjot; the New Lark and Stateside Shine

Eater reads the reviews so you don't have to.

Stateside
Stateside
Barnard and Meyer

The past two weeks, the city's restaurant critics have reviewed Cafe Barjot, the new Lark, and Stateside. Here's a roundup of what they're saying:

Providence Cicero finds a neighborhood gem in Capitol Hill's six-month-old Cafe Barjot"[it's] so diminutive that I hesitate to call attention to it...But good food demands attention...Niçoise, picholine and Castelvetrano olives lolled in a warm oil bath fragrant with citrus, herbs and spice. Sauerkraut showed up again among other pickled things: hot peppers, shredded carrots, daikon and a scene-stealing, whole, soft-cooked egg. If you can’t get enough of that sauerkraut (and I can’t), it also accompanies excellent pork sausage and oven-roasted potatoes." Two and a half stars. [ST]

Nicole Sprinkle visits the newly reopened, more spacious Lark, and finds the portions small but the fare mostly stunning: "Appetizers feel more like bites, entrées like appetizers. Yet nearly everything Sundstrom and his crew send out is a refined balance of creative flair and flawless execution . . . The burrata with charred leeks, olives, and olive-oil croutons is some of the best of that cheese you’ll ever find, oozy as ice cream melting off a cone in the hot sun and lightly but necessarily salted."[SW]

At  Vietnamese hot spot, Stateside, Kathryn Robinson is enamored by the service, among other things: "[While Stateside cuisine is not fusion,] if it’s thrills you’re after, opt for dishes where Johnson presses the playful interpretations further: embellishing shingles of amberjack crudo with tangy lime leaf powder and a perfumy ice of bergamot oranges, for instance, or pairing soy--lacquered beef short ribs with classic French sweet celeriac puree and a tart mix of green apple, ginger, and jalapeños—a textural and flavorful masterpiece, at once buoyant and down to earth. Which brings me to service: as down-to-earth as exists in this town. Every server and host we encountered was adept, unaffected, kind, and funny without being hilarious . . . They were, in short, as careful as the kitchen. And that’s saying a ton." [SM]

Stateside

300 East Pike Street, , WA 98122 (206) 557-7273 Visit Website

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