Two and a Half Stars for Shaker + Spear; Canlis Has Still Got It

The past two weeks, the city's restaurant critics have reviewed Shaker + Spear and the legendary Canlis, now with 28-year-old chef Brady Williams at the helm. Here's a roundup of what they're saying:

Providence Cicero found highlights at the Palladian Hotel's new Shaker + Spear, but felt the cooking and seasoning in many dishes could use work: "The tropical whitefish opah, seared very rare, was resplendent atop charred leeks splashed with Banyuls vinegar, and surrounded by romanesco florets crunchy with fine breadcrumbs ... [Salmon pastrami] was terrific topped with cabbage and cilantro slaw and a slew of pickled mustard seeds between slabs of grilled Wild Wheat Bakery sourdough ... [However,] [a] whole dorade, prettily tricked out with cucumber-and-frisée salad, cilantro-flecked rice and grilled baby zucchini, was undercooked in the center. The mole poblano sauce on the side was excessively salty." Two and a half stars.

Angela Garbes hit up Seattle's fine-dining powerhouse Canlis for her first time ever, and was not disappointed: "[I]f you didn't already realize that your night was going to be special, you'll know it the moment the food—brought to you by a fleet of flawlessly choreographed servers, hosts, bussers, and sommeliers (everyone does a little bit of everything here, and they all do it very well)—arrives at your table. From the first bite of steak tartare—unctuous mini cubes of Wagyu beef nestled in a delicate, savory tuile—it was clear that the kitchen aims to blow your mind. And it succeeds."