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Omega Ouzeri 'Buoyant' In Flavors and Atmosphere; Dunbar Room Gets One Star

Eater reads the reviews so you don't have to.

Omega Ouzeri
Omega Ouzeri
Sara Billups

In the past week, the city's restaurant critics have reviewed Capitol Hill's Greek Omega Ouzeri and the Sorrento Hotel's Dunbar Room. Here's a roundup of what they're saying:

Kathryn Robinson raves about the best tzatziki of her life at Thomas Soukakos' Omega Ouzeri, and many more highlights: "Omega Ouzeri, it appears, is [Soukakos'] arrival ... A shellfish special was a masterpiece of calibration, its clams and mussels lolling in a tomato sauce enlivened with fennel bulb and laced with ouzo, whose licorice notes arrived in just the right proportion ... Soukakos prizes freshness—when the village you grew up in had no refrigeration, farm to table is no tagline—so blistered shishito peppers have that fresh-off-the-stem crunch, grilled lavraki (branzino) is fluffy and cloudlike of flesh, and robed in those Greek stalwarts of lemon and oil and garlic and served with the only real dud of my visits, a flavorless fava bean puree."

Even after the hotel revamp, Providence Cicero is not impressed with the Sorrento's Dunbar Room: "The new menu is still spendy. It's the creation of chef Seth Caswell, who cooked with more passion and attention to detail at his short-lived Queen Anne restaurant, Emmer & Rye, than he is doing here ... Boneless beef short ribs were fibrous and chewy, saved by a sumptuous tangle of thyme-flecked mushrooms that all but buried forgettable fried polenta ... Service was alternately forgetful, maddeningly slow or endearing. A waiter filched some pillows from the Fireside Room to make a short guest more comfortable on the deep, low banquette."

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