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Two and a Half Stars for Entre Amis; Shaker + Spear Still Balancing Style And Substance

Eater reads the reviews so you don't have to.

Entre Amis
Entre Amis
Entre Amis [Facebook]

In the past week, the city's restaurant critics have reviewed Queen Anne's new Entre Amis and Belltown's Shaker + Spear. Here's a roundup of what they're saying:

Providence Cicero finds Benjamin Bernard-Luneau's new Entre Amis to be "effortlessly stylish" and feels Chef Matt Cyr is one to watch: "Among the charcuterie, lamb liverwurst captured my fancy for its smooth, gamy richness. Pancetta-wrapped pork terrine was sweet and mild, with a surprisingly refined texture for a country pâté ... None of those dishes, however, prepared me for the astonishing complexity of roasted vegetables, which seemed wholly inspired by the Northwest landscape. The transformative power of caramelization converted carrots into soft candy and coaxed umami from wild mushrooms." Two and a half stars.

Allison Austin Scheff says Shaker + Spear produces decent cuisine, but perhaps overrehearsed: "The open kitchen produces tasty-enough plates, including roasted chopped clams in their shells wearing a buttery breadcrumb topping ($12), and a sharable romaine salad with apples and Quillisascut cheese in an inspired black pepper dressing ($11). But while service is friendly, there seems to be a style-over-substance issue at play when it comes to the food: the cooking comes across as tight and rehearsed, and intricate plating can take away from the finished product (the romaine salad is dressed on only a portion of its full-size leaves, so that the diner must do the messy job of mixing and cutting the salad)."

Shaker and Spear

2000 2nd Ave, Seattle, WA 98121 (206) 448-1111 Visit Website

Entre Amis

2209 Queen Anne Ave N, Seattle, WA 98109 (206) 708-6836

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