In the past week, the city's restaurant critics have reviewed Columbia City's Salted Sea and Madrona's Vendemmia. Here's a roundup of what they're saying:
Providence Cicero says that although portions are sometimes small for their price at Huy Tat's Salted Sea, overall it's a winner: "King salmon fillet, cooked just to medium, wore a crisp mantle of finely ground rice in place of its skin. Bitter mustard greens, a rough mash of potato and taro root, and a moat of scallion oil nicely rounded out the entree. Charred lemon halves and anchovy butter with green garlic were wonderful companions for a whole trout, roasted with thyme and rosemary sprigs tucked into its belly." 2.5 stars.
For Jessica Yadegaran, Brian Clevenger's Vendemmia is a very smart, well-executed first restaurant: "I also have much respect for Clevenger's ability to take three ingredients and elevate each one without overdoing anything. Case in point: Roasted baby beets ($11), a menu staple that was served with rye toast and pear, comes with goat cheese that has been whipped with heavy cream for an extra smooth—and very pleasing—contrast against the grainy pear. Vendemmia may be a newish neighborhood restaurant, but it leaves the impression of an established destination."