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Ethan Stowell to Open Bramling Cross in Ballard Next Month

It's his most beer-centric spot yet.

Ethan Stowell
Ethan Stowell
Geoffrey Smith

Ballard wins the Ethan Stowell game again. With the debuts of Goldfinch Tavern and Frelard Pizza Company in June, and another branch of Ballard Pizza Company lined up to hit SLU early next year, it's already been a busy year for Stowell, but the man isn't finished. Just missing Eater's list of most anticipated fall openings published two weeks back, Stowell now announces that his thirteenth Seattle restaurant, Bramling Cross, will debut in the old Portalis space on Ballard Ave sometime next month. (Portalis has since relocated to 15th Avenue NW.)

What's different about Bramling Cross off the bat is it's named for a variety of hops, and it's where Stowell says his team is hoping to sell the most beer.

"There are so many microbreweries in Fremont and Ballard that are really highly regarded," Stowell says. "Beer is becoming an upscale thing; might as well put some upscale food with it."

"There are so many microbreweries in Fremont and Ballard that are really highly regarded," Stowell says. "Beer is becoming an upscale thing; might as well put some upscale food with it."

At Bramling Cross, expect about 8 taps of local beer, along with 25 or so additional brews (including imports) available in bottles and cans. In particular, look out for larger bottles of beer (750ml) meant for sharing, as well as wine, bourbon, cider, and more.

On the food front, Michael Gifford from Stowell's How to Cook a Wolf will head up the kitchen at the new 50-seat gastropub, serving up Stowell-caliber fried oysters, hot wings, foie gras, Wagyu culotte steak, grilled chicken, housemade sausages, and more in shared plates. There will also, naturally, be beer pairings aplenty available.

The wood-fired grill will be a centerpiece in the kitchen—one element in a major remodel of the old Portalis space. There are also new skylights, walnut tabletops, and built-in textured cabinetry. With brass and hanging lightbulbs, Bramling Cross comes together with an "upscale taverny feel," says the restaurateur. Regular hours will be 5 to 11 p.m. nightly with plans to add weekend brunch eventually. As usual with Stowell's projects, we can't wait.

Portalis Wine Bar

5205 Ballard Ave NW, Seattle, WA 98107 (206) 783-2007 Visit Website

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