L'Oursin Offers French Decadence and Natural Wines in the Central District

The Central District, which has seen some welcome additions to its dining scene recently like Feed Co. Burgers, Union Coffee, and Jackson's Catfish Corner, is now home to French restaurant L'Oursin.

The restaurant, which opened Tuesday next to Seven Beef, concentrates on sustainable seafood, natural wine, and aperitif cocktails, with current menu items consisting mostly of small plates like broiled oysters and foie gras with sea urchin mousse. There are a few larger plates, too, like grilled black cod and roasted chicken, all the work of head chef JJ Proville, who spent time at Manhattan's Gramercy Tavern and Seattle's Il Corvo and Art of the Table.

Here's a look at the dinner menu, expected to change seasonally:

Another component of the restaurant is the wine list, with selections by wine director Kathryn Olson. Olson has collected organic and/or natural wines, meaning the grapes are farmed conscientiously then the juice is fermented with yeasts found naturally on the fruit. These wines tend to be full of interesting character and flavors, given the unpredictability of the natural fermentation process. An array of house cocktails are the work of general manager and head bartender Zac Overman, who spent time at Sitka and Spruce and Rob Roy as bar manager.

L'Oursin, 1315 E. Jefferson Street, (206) 485-717, website. Open Tuesday to Thursday 5 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5 to 11 p.m.