Welcome back to Week in Reviews. Seattle's food critics recently visited Kedai Makan and Dino's Tomato Pie. Here's what they had to say:
CAPITOL HILL—The Stranger's Angela Garbes praises Kedai Makan's owners, whose "affection for and study of Malaysian food is evident in the restaurant's complex, boldly flavored dishes." She'd like to see more restaurants representing the wild diversity of the country's cuisine, but says this is a good place to start:
"In the onslaught of seasonings, dishes that showcased restraint stood out. The base of seafood curry mee ($12.50) is a rich, dark broth fragrant with a chili paste called rempah, made with shallots, ginger, shrimp paste, and other spices, and coconut milk, the flavors long-simmered into the dish. The ingredients that were added in later—clams, squid, laksa leaf (similar to cilantro), slippery wheat noodles—were more subdued, adding light layers of flavor instead of ones that beleaguered the tongue."
CAPITOL HILL—Bethany Jean Clement of The Seattle Times shares an early rave about Dino's Tomato Pie, which serves "stuff-it-in-your-face, Jersey-style greatness" from Delancey "pizza perfectionist" Brandon Pettit:
"Even thick-crust haters will love Dino's superrich Sicilian version. Approximately an inch high, the crust still stays light, honeycombed with air bubbles; the beautifully, unevenly burnished bottom bears a bonus edge of caramelly blackened cheese. Bright, fresh-tasting tomato sauce and high-quality toppings crown the glory."