Welcome back to Week in Reviews. Seattle's food critics recently visited Gracia, Dough Zone Dumpling House, and Dino's Tomato Pie. Here's what they had to say:
BALLARD—Mexican newcomer Gracia gets three stars from The Seattle Times' Providence Cicero, who enjoys everything from the entrees to the tequila- and mezcal-driven drinks to the tacos made with house-ground masa:
"Tamales have an especially creamy texture. The fragrant, supple tortillas make excellent tacos generously heaped with slow-cooked shredded pork or lamb, bits of beer-battered halibut or roasted vegetables. A finely tuned salsa or crema enhances each."
EASTSIDE—For The Stranger, Angela Garbes gushes over the various dumplings, noodles, and more at Dough Zone Dumpling House's three locations (two in Bellevue, one in Redmond), poking the Din Tai Fung bear in the process:
"If you or someone you know is willing to stand around for more than two hours for a dumpling, that's your business. But for what it's worth, Dough Zone's xiao long bao are just as good as Din Tai Fung's and they cost a full $2 less per order. More importantly, Dough Zone, unlike Din Tai Fung, also serves sheng jian bao, the wonderful pan-fried cousins of xiao long bao."
CAPITOL HILL—Seattle Weekly's Nicole Sprinkle assesses both styles of pizza at Dino's Tomato Pie, praising the round pies "the closest to the real [New York] thing I've found in Seattle," and the signature thick square pies:
"The pizza is also extremely crispy on the sides, in part because it's twice-baked, but also because Parmesan is added to the crust and the tray, even more so on the edges to really char it up. It's really good pizza, but may not be everyone's cup of tea. Sicilian-style has never been my favorite, but this is one of the best versions I've discovered."