On Monday, a line of cars stretched out of the parking lot of Seattle’s fine-dining icon Canlis. Doo wop music blared from outdoor speakers, and the restaurant’s energetic staff directed traffic into various lanes, taking orders on a tablet (while wearing gloves). This was the grand opening of Canlis’s new burger drive-thru, part of a dramatic pivot for the James Beard Award-winning establishment to adjust to realities during the coronavirus pandemic.
Even before Gov. Jay Inslee announced that all bars and restaurants across the state would have to suspend dine-in services through March 31, Canlis had already made the decision that it would fully pivot to takeout and delivery. Instead of the high-end experience it’s banked on for decades, the restaurant now offers its drive-thru from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. five days a week, along with a takeout-only breakfast spot called The Bagel Shed (opening today with plain and dill with ikura spreads) and a meal delivery service for dinner time (rolling out soon via Tock), all based out of its Queen Anne location
For many who have sat in the handsome, mid-century dining room on a special occasion, it might be a little jarring ordering from a short menu of basic fast-food items at the drive-thru (which does not allow substitutions). But Canlis is no stranger to casual pop-ups. Last summer, the restaurant threw a Hawaiian-themed party in its lot with a pig roast, bar, pizza, and an actual pool. It’s also done blow-out bashes for New Year’s Eve.
This occasion was more surreal than anything else, but the vibe was still relaxed and upbeat. The lines were long, but the staff didn’t seem too frazzled and the spacious lot allowed the flow of cars to move at a steady pace. Canlis will keep its 115 employees working, and it was clear many were needed Monday to take orders, run food out to waiting diners, and make sure there weren’t any major traffic snarls. The whole experience took about 45 minutes, when arriving just after 4:30 p.m., although wait times may vary.
As for the food, the $14 six-ounce patty — a blend of Painted Hills brisket, beef chuck, and 60-day dry aged ribeye — with fries was plump, topped with a small heap of caramelized onions and a tangy “fancy sauce.” The $14 veggie melt (which also comes with fries) has greens with cheese and mustard, while the $5 ice cream sandwiches are a nice twist on a throwback, flavored with salt. There’s also the well-known Canlis Salad, with lettuce, cherry tomatoes, mint, and bacon, for $12.
How long this will last is anyone’s guess, though. Local authorities say the order to close down dining rooms is in effect through March 31, but admitted that by then it’s unlikely they would know what the true impact of the measures have been in slowing the spread of COVID-19 in the area. In the meantime, restaurants in Seattle and across the country continue to face a stark reality. An operation with the stature and resources of Canlis may be able to get by for now on just takeout and delivery without the higher revenue from dine-in service (besides the lower-cost items, no booze is served at the drive-thru), but many others aren’t able to do so. Burgers and bagels in a fancy setting aside, this is uncharted territory.