Is it just us, or has pasta gotten a little… fraught? Sure, there have always been arguments over whether or not any given pasta is how nonna used to make it, but these days it also feels like pasta has been “elevated” into oblivion. Fine-dining pomp has provided a new (and for some people, unwelcome) dimension to a food that originated as something deliciously accessible. So we’re glad to see some newcomers bringing some understatedness to their menus, while we still appreciate the flash of local star chefs. Here’s a map that spans a whole spectrum of pasta possibilities.
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